Saturday, February 09, 2013

Free Tuesday #5 on Saturday: Monastery of Pedralbes

Trick! My free Tuesday was really on Saturday! (This past Tuesday, I was being a tourist in Prague.) Last night I met James, Kristin, and Josh for a restaurant tour. We hit up El Vaso de Oro and Can Paixano before heading to the Black Horse... a wonderful evening full of great friends, food, beer, and cava!



This morning I woke up later than I meant to (um, see above!), so I went for just a short run before meeting up with the group.  As soon as we grabbed our train seats, we dug into croissants Josh had picked up from Hofmann's.  (Glad my run made up for about 1/10th of that pastry!)  Finding this award-winning bakery has been a blessing and a curse because their croissants are divine. Next time I will actually take a picture of one instead of just showcasing the bag. :)  But to describe it - buttery, flaky, and filled with smooth raspberry preserves.... Um, awesome.
Our tourist mission for the day was the Monastary of Pedralbes.  This isn't one of the more typical tourist attractions in Barcelona, but I had read enough reviews to convince me to go.  We found the church first, and I was taken with the simplicity of it.  I thought it was stunning, and very similar to my favorite church Santa Maria del Mar.  Already the trip was a win!
After viewing the church, we headed next door to enter the actual monastery. Side note: I love how Barcelona showcases attractions with a big "B" sign.

We spent about an hour exploring the monastery, which included tombs, cells, an art collection, a film about the church's main fresco, a wine cellar, a diorama display about the life of Jesus, a beautiful courtyard, and an abbey. 

Here we are with the courtyard behind us.
After leaving the monastery, we explored the neighborhood a bit and headed to Bar Tomas, which was supposed to have the best patatas bravas in Barcelona.  The place was packed!! Of course we each ordered a plate and I will say they were pretty tasty - certainly a great snack to counter what was to come... which was afternoon tea time at Caelum!  Josh found this place in my guidebook (thanks Laura!!) and was intrigued by the fact that everything in the place is made my monks or nuns, and the bottom part is an old Jewish bathing house.  We ended up arriving before it opened, so we wandered around the Raval neighborhood a bit, and then returned at 3:30 for this wonderful treat. That would be a fig cake and mint tea.... so yummy!
Isn't this place adorable? And romantic apparently - didn't mean to catch this couple smooching!
I came home in time to chat with Angie... we are planning out our month-long European tour! We ended up buying Eurail passes because we 1) couldn't make up minds where to go, and 2) just got excited and wanted to book them. The Eurail map looks like a giant mess of spaghetti - figuring out the trains is going to be fun!

Tonight I may go to an ESADE Carnival party if I can motivate myself to leave.  And then tomorrow... Joe comes! It will be fun to have him back now that I feel I really know the city better. I have so many places (restaurants/bars) to take him to...

Tourist Tuesday Saturday - awesome! My "Barcelona List" is coming along quite nicely!

Wednesday, February 06, 2013

Travel Monster!

Being on exchange, it's entirely expected that I should be traveling as much as possible.  I didn't realize it until Jen pointed out that in the past three weekends, I have been to Madrid, Marrakesh, Berlin, and Prague! 

But I admit... I am really looking forward to an easy weekend in Barcelona where I can get ahead on some school work, go for some runs and/or to the gym, watch some recommended movies from my Philosophy professor, and sleep in as late as I want without feeling like I am missing something!

Then Joe comes on Sunday!!! (quiet but giant jumps of joy!)

And then we start all over again! Thinking towards the future: Portugal, Normandy, Bordeaux (booked!), Costa Brava road trip, Basque Country....  There is just so much to see!!!!!!!

Tuesday, February 05, 2013

Exchange Adventures: Prague!

If I had to leave Berlin, I suppose Prague was not a bad place to go next!  I admit, I didn't really know much about the city except that it is very popular with tourists, very beautiful, and somewhere that I needed to go.   It was much smaller than I expected, which made it pretty easy to see everything in two days.

After taking the five hour train from Berlin, Melissa and I walked to the Hotel Mucha and met Min & Demola.  Within minutes Min showed me flyers for a Bolero concert and a Gershwin concert... already such great choices & a great sign for mutual group interests!  Min, Damola, and I took off to see the city and somehow ended up buying tickets to Swan Lake that night to cap off our chosen Bolero concert. Um.... girl trip much?!

We then grabbed some mulled wine in a cafe in Old Town Square and had a great view of the Astronomical Clock.

We then headed to the top of the tower to get 360 degree views of Prague and orient ourselves in the city.




After another wine stop, we were ready for our 5:30pm concert at the Spanish Synagogue.
First - the synagogue was gorgeous.  Hopefully the pictures do it justice.  Second - the music was fantastic! There were 5 musicians playing violin, viola,  cello, and bass and a very talented singer who wowed during renditions of Evita, Carmen, and Hava Negela!  Other songs included Bolero of course, Porgy & Bess, and some classic hebrew songs that took my back to my Temple Shalom days.  I thoroughly enjoyed the concert and was so glad Min found it.
 Next we went to a performance of Swan Lake! It was definitely touristy, but no matter - it was still very beautiful and reminded me how much I love Tchaikovsky and ballet. After five hours of culture, the group decided to end the night at an Irish pub followed by a chilly walk home in the snow.

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We had a pretty good plan for Monday, and got started around 10am after I had probably 5 cups of coffee from the breakfast buffet. (Did I mention I miss unlimited coffee?!)  We walked through town and through a park up to Prague Castle.

 
We explored some churches, including the famous St. Vitus Cathedral, watched the changing of the guard, took in the gorgeous views, and then headed to the Strahov Monastic Brewery for lunch and beer.  This place was fantastic!!! I highly recommend it.  In addition to some delicious beer, we all had beer/onion soup with cheesy bread that was superb.  I think all of us were surprised at how much we enjoyed Czech food here!


After lunch, we headed towards town to the Franz Kafka Museum.  This was one of the odder museums I have been in, but quite fitting because three of us are in Life Philosophy together and recently have been discussing his work. I have always been a fan of Kafka's work, so getting to learn more about him was a highlight.

We headed back over the river via the famous Charles Bridge, and then came to terms with the fact that no one wanted to be outside anymore.  Even though one of the pictures looks like it is sunny and warm out, the sun lasted for maybe three minutes.

With three hours until dinner, Min & I opted to get Thai massages which kept us warm and comfortable.  After my Indian massage experience, I am not very keen on people touching me.  So I got the 8 euro hour long foot massage that was incredible.  (You'd think after foot surgery I would take better care of my feet, right?! But this made me realize that I have been doing myself a disservice by avoiding my feet for two years. Anyway, too much information perhaps?)  For dinner we opted for a very close restaurant, some Staropraman (YAY!), and an early night.

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We split up Tuesday morning as we all had different interests, and I got up early to eat breakfast and then check out the Mucha Museum.

I had seen Mucha's work, but didn't know much about him.  I am so glad I went to this museum as I learned a lot about his life and his art!  I still had three hours after the museum before it was time to leave, so I wandered the city, purposefully getting lost and just assuming I'd find my way back. (This is something I learned from Joe and I admit it is pretty fun!) I was able to see the Jubilee Synagogue, the National Museum, some churches, New Town, and Frank Gehry's "Fred & Ginger" house.

I made it back to the hotel at 1pm in time to catch the cab to the airport. I was ready to get back to Barcelona, meet Jen's Hilary, grab dinner at the always-amazing Cal Pep, sleep in my own room, and get ready for Joe to come back!

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Thoughts on Prague:
1. As I said, this city was so much smaller than I expected.  I feel like one day might have been enough as there wasn't really all that much I wanted to see.  I am sure it is even more lovely in Spring/Summer and I would have been more motivated to stay outside!
2. Czech beer is fabulous!!!
3.  Prague really reminded me of Budapest. I think the major difference is that the buildings in Prague are original, meaning the city was never really damaged physically by wars.  Pretty cool to see so much original stuff!  If pressed, I think I actually liked Budapest more though! Who would have thought?!
4. As much as I don't like to travel with a "check the box" mentality, I think that's the case here. I don't think I'll be back (unless for work or something) but I'm glad I went. 

Exchange Adventures: Berlin!

Thanks to ESADE's winter career forum, we had Monday & Tuesday off of school... which to me meant six full days of travel! In narrowing down my options, I decided to visit two cities that Joe had already been to (and highly recommended) so that we could try new places together once he returns to Barcelona.  After consulting e-dreams, I realized that flying to Berlin and out from Prague was easy and cheap.  A five hour train ride from Berlin to Prague Sunday morning for only 60 euros sealed the deal.  Some of my ESADE friends liked the idea and joined me for parts of the trip.  So with that... first stop - Berlin!

I arrived to Berlin Thursday mid-day and was determined to figure out public transit without asking any questions. I'm pleased to report that I managed to find my way around pretty well. Maybe finally living in a metro-based city is helping?  Anyway, I got off the train from the airport in Alexanderplatz.  The first thing I noticed was a giant tower and a partially rebuilt church.

After grabbing a giant pretzel and coffee from a bakery nearby, I decided to visit both. First stop was the TV tower.  Luckily there were no lines and the process to get up was super easy. Once at the top, I had 360 degree views of the city and was able to orient myself.
 
There were great signposts throughout that referenced what I was looking at as well as describing the historical significance. I spent about 30 minutes up there, and since it was approaching sunset I got to see the city light up!  My next stop was the church, which was nice and quick to see. I do find it ironic that churches are my most frequented type of buildings these days.

From there I stopped into a tourist office to see if there were any shows/ballets/operas/concerts happening.  I ultimately decided I did not want to sit through a German-speaking show, so I headed to my hotel and consulted Yelp for a dinner spot.  The Boetzow Private had great reviews and was a 5 minute walk, so I headed there armed with my Kindle and an appetite. Dinner was delicious (a 3-course meal of red pepper soup, spelt gnocchi with walnuts and pesto, and creme brule - so delicious!) but the best part was striking up conversation with a couple seated nearby. They are ex-pats living in Berlin, and the husband, Bill, offered me a personalized view of Berlin! I was going to take a walking tour anyway, but I quickly agreed to meet him instead.  We exchanged details and I headed back to the hotel to rest up for Friday.

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After another successful metro ride (can you tell how proud this makes me?!), I grabbed breakfast in Potsdammer Platz (a nutella bagel- heaven!) and then met Bill for our tour.  Together we accomplished the following:
Remains of the train station (Anhalter Bahnhof) that was used to deport Jews in WWII

The Berlin Wall Memorial

The Topography of Terror Museum - on the site of Hitler's Third Reich buildings


Checkpoint Charlie - the most famed checkpoint at the Wall, and scene of the US/Soviet tank face-off

Pit-stop at Bill's house where I got to play with his dog. (good mental break + dog fix!!!)
Postdammer Platz/Sony Center
Hitler's Bunker


Holocaust Memorial and Museum

Brandenburg Gate

Lunch at Alt Berliner Wirsthaus
The Alden Hotel (where Michael Jackson held his baby out of the window)
The Reichstadt & Parliament buildings

The Tiergarten - a park much like Central Park
Victory Column (and the full 270 steps to the top)

Back to Bill's to say hello to his wife Janet.

Phew!!! A fantastic tour of Berlin with great company. I was so thankful that I met this couple - the Friday with Bill made this trip!  I met Melissa back at the hotel and we went for a mediocre german dinner, and then I went back to the hotel to rest. I admit - my legs were so tired!!

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It was very cold and raining when we left the hotel Saturday, but after grabbing an amazing german pastry & coffee, things cleared up.  Melissa took off for a city tour, and I had the day to myself to explore more of Berlin. The nice thing was that I had already decided I would be coming back to this city, so I didn't feel I had to see everything. Instead I took my time and wandered wherever I felt.   My first stop was the Berliner Dom, a reconstructed church that afforded me a free organ concert and some crazy views from the top of the dome.  (It also confirmed that Berlin is full of stairs!)


Then I walked through   Museum Island, a little market, another church with yet another free organ concert...
through this square...
and onto the Ritter Sport Museum/store.
 I *may* have completely loaded up on a ridiculous amount of chocolate.  But it's totally for Jen & me & Joe to share. Yeah. (I bought white chocolate for Joe - that is how, um, serious I am about this!) You could even make your own chocolate bars, but that seemed a bit excessive to even me.

Next I wandered around the famous street Unter den Linden and hopped on a free tour via the 100 bus.  I recommend the bus as a easy way to see more of the city in a short period of time.  It was neat to see so much of what Bill and I had already explored and again familiarize myself with the city's layout.  The bus dropped me off in Alexanderplatz and I spotted my next destination - a chicken doner kebab restaurant.  Finally - a real Berlin doner kebab - and it was delicious!!  While eating, I consulted my TripAdvisor CityGuide and realized there was a cool area about 200 feet away that held an Ann Frank Museum and the Otto Weidt Museum, as well as some actual beautiful graffiti meant to represent holding on to the older parts of Berlin.  I am so glad I found this area....the Otto Weidt Museum was a trip highlight for me.  Mr. Weidt spent many years protecting Jews during WWII, and the museum showcased his actions and the stories of people he helped. It was inspiring, heart-breaking, and very personal.   In a way, it was the perfect last place to go after days of looking at WWII information.






I had made plans to have dinner with Janet & Bill (yay!) so I had a few hours to wander around the Mitte neighborhood. I found some cool shops, galleries, street art, and ultimately a darling little coffeehouse where I was able to finish my book and stay out of the cold.  I met Melissa early at our restaurant (Die Berliner Republik - totally recommend it) for beer, and then Bill & Janet joined for dinner. Again, it was so much fun to hang out with them - and hopefully I have convinced them to visit me in Barcelona.   We headed back to the hotel after that so we could get up bright and early for our train to Prague.  (This trip definitely reinforced how little going to clubs interests me - I much prefer low-key evenings with good food and drink and lots of sleep!)

Some thoughts on Berlin:
-I loved this city.  It's that simple.  Really, I'm not sure how to put it into words, and I feel like I am repeating what Joe has said of Berlin as well.  There was not one thing that defined it, but it had this great energy to it. I think it might be tied with Seattle and Vienna for the short-list of cities I want to live in.
-Obviously Berlin is most know for being home to Hitler and being central to WWII, and for the Berlin Wall and being a focal point of the Cold War.  It was incredible to me how the city has turned itself into a place for remembrance, recognition, and memorial.  There is no hiding of its history - rather there is a very clear effort to make sure that everyone can access information about what Berlin has been through.
-For being largely flattened during WWII, Berlin is very much alive. The buildings have been rebuilt, and cranes and construction was everywhere.  Yet even with all of the new construction, the city has personality and beauty.
-Not necessarily a Berlin thought, but obviously making new friends in the city greatly added to my experience and appreciation.
-I will be back!